Purchasing a voltage stabilizer for a private home is both a simple and complex task these days. On the one hand, these devices are sold everywhere: just go to any specialized store. On the other hand, there are too many of them – good and very different. What should I do? Follow simple rules.
The first is to determine the type of stabilizer
There are several types of stabilizers:
- relay services;
- electronic devices;
- Electromechanical systems;
- hybrid services;
- thyristor devices.
Relay work at subzero temperatures, but in the house this quality is not as important as on the site. At home, the smoothness of adjustment is more important, as well as the accuracy of the result that is characteristic of Electromechanical devices. However, they work with a mains voltage of 140 V – with lower indicators they turn off the network.
Hybrid analogs have all the advantages of relay and Electromechanical ones: they are smooth, accurate and do not switch off at low voltage (from 105 V). However, they are mounted only on the floor, not on the wall. And they only work at positive temperatures.
Thyristor stabilizers are even cooler: they work from 60 V. Moreover, they are mounted on the wall, are silent and have a 3-year warranty. But they are, of course, expensive.
The second one: choose a 1-phase or 3-phase option
If the house is connected to 1 phase, choose a 1-phase stabilizer. If the network and consumers are 3-phase-the same stabilizer. If the network is 3-phase, and consumers are 1-phase, it is better to put three 1-phase stabilizers. Then they will not be disconnected, de-energizing the entire house, if only one phase is lost.
The third: to consider the negative temperature
If the stabilizer is installed in the house, then there will be no requirements for frost resistance. If you plan to install it outdoors or in an unheated room, choose a device that can work even at temperatures below zero.
Fourth: choose the power of the stabilizer
This is equally important: if the power is too low, the stabilizer will constantly turn off due to overloads. The main rule in this section is as follows: the machine should not allow the load of home electrical wiring to exceed the values for which it is designed.
And it’s not about greed, but the risk of fires. If the consumer tries to load the wiring with electrical appliances with a power greater than allowed, the machine will simply turn off everything for protection and prevent the occurrence of a fire.
To get a specific value, multiply the input automaton value by 220. If phase 1 or all consumers are 2-phase, then you will get: 40 * 220 = 8800 (or 8.8 kilovolt-amps). If 3 phases are set, then this is usually 20 * 3 * 220 = 13200 (or 13.2 kilovolt-amps). The power of the stabilizer must include the received value.
In the first case – one 1-phase stabilizer for 10 kVA, in the second – one 3-phase for 10 kVA or three 1-phase for 10 kVA each.
Fifth: think about the voltage drop
It is important to keep in mind that when the mains voltage drops, the power provided by the stabilizer also drops. But if you load the network to the full, the device will not be able to cope. The protection will turn on and cut off all electrical appliances along with the stabilizer. So it is better to choose this device with a decent power reserve: preferably at least a third.